The 2009 Chardonnay Rincon Vineyard is a gorgeous wine graced with layers of expressive tropical fruit, sweet spices and vanilla. All of the elements flow with notable harmony, building nicely to the polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

The 2008 Chardonnay Rincon Vineyard is one of the richer, fatter wines in this lineup of 2008 Chardonnays. It possesses gorgeous textural richness and a voluptuous personality. The wine’s overt tropical fruit and extroverted personality will appeal to readers who enjoy bold Chardonnays. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

3 A great Rincon Chardonnay, Talley’s best ever. So rich and dramatically layered in pineapple tart, Meyer lemon custard, Key lime pie, golden apricot, mango and vanilla oak flavors, yet so briskly acidic and bright, with a firm minerality, like a lick of cold steel. Only 460 cases produced, but worth a special search.——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 95