The 2010 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard, on the other hand, is one of the weakest wines in this line up. The fruit has already begun to dry out and the wine has very little depth or body. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. This is a mixed set of wines from Tantara. I suspect much of that has to do with the challenges of the growing season. A number of theses Pinots were harvested in October, which is very late for Pinot, even in this vintage. My sense is that some of this fruit never recovered from the heat spikes in late September. Tel. (805) 938-5051

The 2009 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard reveals greater depth and muscle than the Garys’. It is a tasty, relatively large-scaled Pinot with good intensity in its dark fruit. Here, too, I find less complexity and finesse than in the estate’s best 2009s. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I tasted a wide range of wines from Tantara, including a whopping 12 different Pinots. I can certainly understand the appeal of vinifying small lots of fruit from a large number of top sites in the Central Coast, but it must be a huge challenge to properly supervise the growing of fruit in sites that run from Arroyo Grande to the Santa Lucia Highlands. These 2009 Pinots suggest a little more focus on fewer appellations might not be a bad thing. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036; tantarawinery.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard comes from sandy, loamy soils over decomposed granite. This is easily the best of Tantara’s 2008s. Forest floor, raspberry, dark plum, and black cherries jump from the glass of this deep ruby/purple-tinged Pinot Noir. It has the broadest, richest flavor profile, outstanding depth, subtle oak, and a deep, fleshy mouthfeel. Ten percent whole clusters were used during fermentation, and the wine was aged 16 months in 60% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This wine can certainly last for another 5-7 years. This is a dizzying array of wines, including four Chardonnays and eleven Pinot Noirs. Perhaps it is overkill, but the quality of the wines is very high, and Tantara remains one of the bright, shining spots for these varietals on the Central Coast. Among the four Chardonnays, two are from the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg and the Bien Nacido, the Talley-Rincon is from Edna Valley’s Arroyo Grande appellation, and the Brosseau from the limestone soils of Chalone. The Pinot Noirs essentially cover virtually every Central Coast appellation, from the Santa Lucia Highlands in the north to the Santa Maria Valley in the south. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

Another terrific effort is Tantara’s 2007 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard. Ten percent stems were included in this wine, resulting in a grand cru like red. Flowery (roses?) notes intermixed with sweet black and red currant fruit, forest floor, and incense aromas are followed by a full-bodied wine with fabulous concentration, sweet, silky tannins, a layered, multidimensional mouthfeel, and a stunning, 40+ second finish. This beauty can be approached now or cellared for a decade or more. This is a fascinating, exceptionally high quality group of Pinot Noirs. They tend to range in the mid-14% alcohol levels, with the oak regime generally around 30-60% new. Tantara’s policy with respect to fermenting with stems varies from zero to as much as 20% for the Dierberg, Evelyn, Bien Nacido Old Vine, and Solomon Hills. Production is relatively limited, from a low of under 90 cases for the Bien Nacido Old Vine and Brosseau, to just over 200 cases for some vineyards. The most limited cuvees are the two single vineyard lots of Burt and La Grande Colline, approximately 24 cases of each. Most of these wines, save for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. Kudos to Tantara for a very impressive line-up of Pinots. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

Offering notions of sweet black currants, blueberries, flowers, charcoal, smoke, and background oak, the 2005 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard reveals superb fruit on the attack and mid-palate, good opulence and richness, and a long finish with no hard edges. Enjoy this beauty over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036