The 2011 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is light in color but masculine in personality. It-s a tight, nervous wine that needs more time to evolve in the cellar. Pretty fruit tones of wild berry and cassis set the stage, leaving ample room for nuanced mineral expressions. The tannins are tight, but polished and should become finer with age. Drink 2017-2030. Marco de Grazia-s influence on the wines of Etna looms as large as the massive volcano that dominates the landscape in this very special corner of Sicily. This bi-cultural Italian and American figure (with extensive influence in the wine world as an importer, producer and great connoisseur of Barolo and Barbaresco) has pretty much moved permanently to live on Etna. His daughter is enrolled in the local school and his winery is a happy meeting ground for many younger Etna winemakers who seek Marco-s advice and counsel. I have often observed how the newest generations of winemakers - the so-called -Etna Boys- - refer to Marco in paternal tones. Importers: A Marc de Grazia Selection, with various American importers including, De Grazia Imports, www.marcdegrazia.com; Michael Skurnik Wine, www.skurnikwines.com; Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; Estate Wines, www.estatewinesltd.com

The 2010 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is a lovely introduction to the vintage at Terre Nere. Pine, menthol, red cherries and wild flowers all take shape in the glass. Firm tannins provide the backbone in this finely sculpted, chiseled Nerello Mascalese. Savory notes reappear to frame the bright, high-toned finish. If opened today, the 2010 will benefit from a few hours of air. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2009 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is quite pretty in this vintage. As always, it is one of the more immediate wines in the range. The typically firm tannins are nicely balanced by an expressive, plush core of fruit that fills out the wine’s broad shouldered frame nicely. Dried flowers, savory herbs and a hint of tobacco add complexity to a firm, structured finish that is impossible to resist. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2008 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is another imposing wine, but it never seems to fully soften. Dark red fruit, sweet herbs and crushed flowers are some of the nuances that occasionally make an appearance. Today the Calderara Sottana gives the impression of having a fairly narrow drinking window during which the tannins will soften while the fruit retains enough density to provide enjoyment. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2024. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Over the centuries, lava flows from Mount Etna have formed natural vineyard terracing and tiny farming pockets, each characterized by a unique microclimate. The Calderara Sottana is a particularly fortunate niche that produces high quality fruit, elegant aromas and firmly polished structure. This wine is silky, long and very beautiful. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 93