I was delighted by the 2013 Etna Bianco Cuvèe delle Vigne Niche because it shows a broader style that I did not expect. This is a pure expression of Carricante from vines that are up to 60 years old in age. It sees brief oak contact. You get a pure sense of mineral dryness at first, but that layer lifts gracefully to expose orange peel, dried jasmine and exotic fruit at the back. This Etna white delivers a firm style with muscle and density. It should evolve nicely over the next five years.

Terre Nere’s 2010 Etna Bianco Cuvee Vigne Niche wraps around the palate with serious depth, power and richness. I very much like the way the 2010 fleshes out in the glass, coming at the palate in all directions with seemingly endless layers and pure, delineated fruit. Smoke, white truffle and orange peel are layered into the textured, exotic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2008 Etna Bianco Cuvee delle Vigne Niche is a wonderfully nuanced white loaded with rich yellow stone fruit, earthiness, smoke and crushed rocks, all of which come together on a deceptively mid-weight, textured frame. This offers gorgeous depth in the glass that leads seamlessly to the long, polished finish. With air, the wine's creaminess and pedigree emerges with tons of elegance. The Cuvee delle Vigne Niche is 100% Carricante aged in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Proprietor Marc de Grazia is one of the pioneers of the Etna. Not only was he among the first producers to recognize the value of these once-forgotten, ancient terroirs, he also was the first producer to bring attention to the specific qualities of these vineyards by bottling single-parcel Nerellos that have become reference-point wines for the Etna. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Etna Bianco Cuvee delle Vigne Niche (Carricante) has developed lovely complexity in bottle. Smoke, ash, menthol and licorice are some of the nuances that add complexity to a generous expression of fruit. I am not sure how long the 2007 will last, but today it is an immensely rewarding, generous and complete wine from the Etna. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Proprietor Marc de Grazia is one of the pioneers of the Etna. Not only was he among the first producers to recognize the value of these once-forgotten, ancient terroirs, he also was the first producer to bring attention to the specific qualities of these vineyards by bottling single-parcel Nerellos that have become reference-point wines for the Etna. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119