Opening to pretty floral intensity, the 2020 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro Delle Rose comes from a 0.7-hectare plot within one of Etna's largest contrade. Cherry trees and prickly pears grow at the perimeter. These are some of the first grapes to reach maturity and are harvested before the others. The wine offers straightforward cassis and wild cherry with hints of medicinal herb at the back. The tannins are silky and long. Some of these alberello (or head-pruned) vines are over 50 years old, and some are younger.

This wine is slightly savory and balsamic in character. The 2016 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro Delle Rose (98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio) opens to tangy notes of medicinal herb and eucalyptus essence with dark berry fruit, plum and black currant. Like the many other wines from this vintage, the wine is accessible and immediate, making it a good choice for those who can't wait to pop the cork as well as those who do have the patience to wait (5 years or more). The mouthfeel is thin and compact. Some 7,000 bottles were made.

The 2011 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose is among the more feminine and graceful of Marco-s single-vineyard expressions. It opens to a slightly lighter garnet hue (but not by much) and offers a steady progression of red flower, wild berry and wet earth aromas. The quality of the fruit is immensely pure and focused. Feudo di Mezzo is better suited to long-term consumption. The tannins are still youthful and nervous. Drink 2017-2029. Marco de Grazia-s influence on the wines of Etna looms as large as the massive volcano that dominates the landscape in this very special corner of Sicily. This bi-cultural Italian and American figure (with extensive influence in the wine world as an importer, producer and great connoisseur of Barolo and Barbaresco) has pretty much moved permanently to live on Etna. His daughter is enrolled in the local school and his winery is a happy meeting ground for many younger Etna winemakers who seek Marco-s advice and counsel. I have often observed how the newest generations of winemakers - the so-called -Etna Boys- - refer to Marco in paternal tones. Importers: A Marc de Grazia Selection, with various American importers including, De Grazia Imports, www.marcdegrazia.com; Michael Skurnik Wine, www.skurnikwines.com; Classic Wine Imports, www.classicwineimports.com; Estate Wines, www.estatewinesltd.com

The 2010 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro delle Rose comes across as deep, powerful and earthy. This is a decidedly dark, brooding Nerello Mascalese. Firm, incisive tannins don’t seem to soften, even with considerable aeration. The 2010 is best left alone for another year or two, but it is hard to imagine it developing into a wine of true finesse. My impression is that the 2010 will always remain a bit of a brute. New leather, earthiness, tobacco, smoke and incense all add complexity on the mysterious, beguiling finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

As is often, the case, the 2009 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo is one of the more compact, powerful wines in the range. Today it is closed down and virtually impossible to evaluate. My sense is the 2009 will be better in a few years’ time, but it is hard to see the wine ever becoming particularly elegant. Instead, chances are the Feudo di Mezzo will always be a bit of a brute. Cinnamon, cloves, leather and tobacco linger on the rustic, imposing finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887