The highlight in this range of 2010s is the Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino, easily the most refined of these offerings from Terre Nere. A gorgeous, vibrant core of fruit caresses the palate in this expressive and totally delicious wine. The 2010 isn’t as big or rich as some previous versions, instead it is a wine that impresses for its considerable length and pure finesse on the palate. Tobacco and spice notes add complexity to the finish in a Nerello Mascalese that bears more than a passing resemblance to the Volnays of the Cote de Beaune. D’Angerville comes to mind. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The estate's 2008 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino is stunning. Layers of seamless dark fruit emerge from this dazzling, pure red. The Don Peppino reveals impeccable balance of fruit and structure. Here, too, the tannins are present but balanced beautifully by the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the fruit. In 2008 the Don Peppino is made from old vines in Calderara and Santo Spirito that date back to 1870. It is the only red that is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese and that is aged in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino flows with incredible richness and power, but never comes across as heavy. Today, the Don Peppino is incredibly primary. It needs several more years in bottle to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors, but even today the integrity of the dark red fruit and the elegance of the tannins are totally convincing. All this needs is time. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2027. Proprietor Marc de Grazia is one of the pioneers of the Etna. Not only was he among the first producers to recognize the value of these once-forgotten, ancient terroirs, he also was the first producer to bring attention to the specific qualities of these vineyards by bottling single-parcel Nerellos that have become reference-point wines for the Etna. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Don Peppino’s vineyard lies on the lower slopes of Mt. Etna where the black volcanic terrain is easier to cultivate. The resulting fruit here comes across as focused and well-defined by mineral and berry tendencies with excellent crispness and enormous endurance on the close.——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 94

Mount Etna’s Don Peppino vineyard is responsible for some of the volcano’s most precious and highest quality fruit. This wine opens with a light hue and delicate aromas of violets, white almonds, cranberries and fresh plums. The nose is polished and refined. It’s hard to believe that sucha violent volcano can produce such a feminine wine.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 93