Nutty and sweaty smelling. There’s life and acidity to the palate, but the flavors of pickled fruits turn bitter and seem less than clean. Doesn’t start that well and never improves. ——M.S.(12/1/2011)—— 81

Ripe and oily on the nose, with apple and toast aromas. The palate is aggressive but not sharp, with integrated, pulsing acidity pushing mid-level, less-than-interesting apple flavors. Chunky on the finish, with a pithy aftertaste and vanilla.——M.S.(12/31/2009)—— 84