Readers looking for an inexpensive sparkling wine should try the non-vintage Brut Reserve, made from equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that was aged on its lees for six months. A Champagne look-alike, it is surprisingly light on its feet, elegant, and fresh with good effervescence, and plenty of character. Drink it over the next year. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228