Though no longer allowed to label itself Port, this remains one of the country’s best Port-style dessert wines, a selection of the winery’s best lots of late-ripened Zinfandel, Touriga, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Souzao. At 20% alcohol and 10% residual sugar, it has the concentration and raw power of the real McCoy, and is absolutely packed with a sweet array of baking spices, clove and still more exotic east Indian flavors, along with citrus, orange peel and pungent blossoms. A real tour de force.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 94