The 2009 Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore Ca del Laito is an irresistibly thick and densely concentrated wine that is immensely soft and pleasurable in the mouth. It imparts dark berry, tar, black licorice, spice, brown sugar and leather. The blend is 60% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 10% Molinara and the wine ages 30 months in traditional botte grande. The wine wraps thickly over the palate. Drink 2014-2018. The Bussola family has been producing top-notch Amarone for decades. In a truly touching family tradition, some of the older wines are named “BG” after uncle Giuseppe Bussola who founded the estate and adopted a traditional winemaking style. Recent expressions are named “TB” after Tommaso Bussola who is responsible for winemaking since 1983 and represents a modernist style. This flight of new releases, particularly the trio of 2007 Amarones, is exceptional. Tommaso’s sons Paolo and Giuseppe have both recently joined the winemaking efforts. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., www.rarewineco.com

The 2007 Valpolicella Ripasso Ca’ del Laito is an excellent introduction to the wines of Tommaso Bussola. Sweet red cherries, plums, spices, licorice and dried herbs are some of the notes that flesh out in this attractive, mid-weight offering. The 2007 should drink beautifully over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2005 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Ca'del Laito emerges from the glass with juicy dark cherries, spices and subtle French oak. The Ca'del Laito is a delicious, entry-level wine from one of Valpolicella's top growers. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2004 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Ca’ del Laito reveals notable richness in its ripe jammy fruit, caramelized sugar, grilled herbs and toasted oak. The wine offers terrific depth on the palate in an engaging style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. This is another superb set of wines from Tommaso Bussola. The highlights are the 2004 Amarones, which are phenomenal. Sadly, prices have become just as breathtaking as the wines themselves. Still, these are among the most unique wines being made anywhere. Bussola has delayed the release of his 2003 Amarones, as he feels they need more time. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Ripe, crushed fruit, well-extracted and still fresh.