The 2007 Riesling trocken Joducus – representing the Josts’ generic estate Riesling from their Rheingau vineyards in Walluf – displays more refinement and refreshment (as well as – perhaps no coincidence – less alcohol) than their corresponding entry-level Mittelrhein Riesling (nicknamed “Devon S”). Toasted grain, grapefruit, and under-ripe peach are tinged with salt and crushed stone mineral notes and the palate impression is substantial but not at all heavy, the whole effect being slightly white Burgundy-like. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 4-5 years. The 2007 vintage was immensely satisfying for the Josts, combining as it did high must weights (but less so than in most recent vintages); ripe acid-retention; ample precipitation (for a flagship site so notoriously dry that it is among the very few in Germany to have been approved decades ago for drip lines); perfect botrytis; and a bumper crop (after several straight years of penury). All of that noted, I was still marginally disappointed by this year’s dry wines. I cannot help but wonder whether the Hahn simply promotes too much sugar in its Riesling grapes for ideal balance at legal Trockenheit. Peter Jost continues to follow a distinctive approach to nobly sweet success – honed only over the past several years – of rigorously removing and discarding in September any botrytis that might not later at harvest be distinguishable from fresh botrytis, and of favoring lower residual sugar and correspondingly higher alcohol in the finished wines than is nowadays fashionable.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300