Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mittelrhein, Germany

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與同年份其它干性 Jost 相比，2010 年的 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs 質地更豐厚，散發(fā)著更加濃郁的酒泥味。然而，可惜的是，此酒色澤渾濁，余味苦澀。此款 Hahn 散發(fā)著酸蘋果、新鮮檸檬的味道，并伴有烤堅果與碎石味。余味悠長奔放，如能再飲，此生無憾。

The Jost 2009 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs – like last year’s rendition – reached 13.5% alcohol, but manages to handle it more adeptly, albeit with a hint of heat. Grapefruit, papaya, and banana aromas lend a tropical tone that persists on a full, soothingly glycerin-rich, but satisfyingly juicy palate, while hints of nut paste and honey – despite the wine’s dryness – lend an almost confectionary hint. I would plan on drinking this over the next 5-7 years, suspecting that it will never aspire to elegance. For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463

The Josts’ 2008 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Grosses Gewachs reached 13.5% alcohol, or a little bit more than the 2007, after having been left until late to harvest (although Josts report that the must weight didn’t increase much in the late innings; this was simply selected from the oldest vines with the ripest fruits, generally just one bunch each!). Peach kernel and apple pit bitterness is frequently part of the invigorating charm of Riesling from slate slopes, but when you remove the vivacity and the sweet succulence of fruit, I find the bitterness objectionable. Then add a hint of heat?. All that registered, there is an imposingly oily richness about this wine, and without question a stony underlying sense of things mineral that makes one take note. But for me, it’s an example of Grosse Gewachse forgetting the Riesling virtues, and offering instead virtues (to the extent one considers them that) which can be found in countless other places and grape varieties. I doubt, too, that time in the cellar will remedy – it might even exacerbate – what disappoints me here. Confession: I re-tasted the Josts’ 2006 Grosses Gewachs shortly afterward, and found it now handling its 14% alcohol surprisingly well. But that wine still doesn’t excite me. Young Cecilia Jost is taking charge of the cellar here. In 2008, though, she was tied up with a commitment to harvest in Austria, so Peter and Linde Jost were still calling the shots. Given the ripening tendencies of the Jost’s great, steep, near-monopole Hahn (which is the reason Josts have now planted a site high above it to try to get back to real Kabinett) as well as the lees contact that Peter Jost favors, the 2008 vintage offered a possible antidote to high alcohol, lack of transparency or massiveness that are occasionally exhibited at this address, while permitting a later harvest than Josts have “enjoyed” (assuming you consider that the right word) in some years, lasting until November 10.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300