The 2008 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Select is dark ruby-colored with a nose of Asian spices, incense, black cherry, and black raspberry. Medium-bodied and savory on the palate but somewhat compact compared to its peers, it contains enough ripe tannin to evolve for several years at which point it may well fill itself out and merit an outstanding rating. Torii Mor was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson. Their Olson Estate Vineyard was planted in 1972 making it one of the oldest in the state. Production now stands at 15,000 cases.Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com

The 2007 Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Select offers up an enticing nose of cedar, cinnamon, allspice, cherry, and rose petal leading to a medium-bodied wine with savory fruit, light tannin, lively acidity, and a medium-long finish. It should achieve its silky best with another 1-2 years of cellaring. Vintages definitely matter in the Willamette Valley. I gave every one of Torii Mor's 2006 Pinot Noirs a rating of at least 90 points. In the 2007 vintage only one wine achieved that score and several could not be recommended.Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com