The 2016 Pinot Noir Deux Verres is pale to medium ruby-purple with a reticent nose of red and black cherries, red licorice and forest floor. Light to medium-bodied, it offers good concentration of red and black fruits in the mouth with grainy tannins with mouthwatering acidity, finishing long. 425 cases produced.

Early this year I tasted a small subset of last year’s numerous releases from this winery, finding an entry-level 2009 Pinot Noir tart without offering genuine invigoration or refreshment, but a 2009 Pinot Noir Deux Verres – which I happen to have encountered twice – displayed a more engaging manner, its tart; persistently juicy; seed and pit-laced evocation of red raspberry and cherry informing a firm-textured, if not slightly hard, palate. Scents of hibiscus and brown spice add some interest. I wouldn’t have recognized this as being from its vintage; in fact, when I tasted it blind the first time, I assumed it must be a 2010. My suspicion is that it will be best drunk over the next 2-3 years. Another Oregon winery founded by a wine lover smitten with the charms of Pinot, Torii Mor’s first vintage was 1993, but by then the wine lover in question – Dr. Donald Olson – was a veteran grower, his vines (located immediately north of the prime Dundee Hills stretch of Worden Hill Rd.) having reached age 21. Burgundian Jacques Tardy has been the winemaker since 2004. Tel. (800) 839-5004

The 2007 Pinot Noir Deux Verres has a bouquet in which spicy cherry and raspberry aromas are in the foreground. It has sweeter fruit, good balance, and a medium-long, silky finish. Drink it through 2015. Vintages definitely matter in the Willamette Valley. I gave every one of Torii Mor's 2006 Pinot Noirs a rating of at least 90 points. In the 2007 vintage only one wine achieved that score and several could not be recommended. Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com

The 2006 Pinot Noir Deux Verres is a regional blend from nine vineyards. It was aged for 13 months in 29% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it reveals aromas of damp earth, tobacco, spice box, and cherry. Supple textured with good depth and concentration, it has gobs of savory, spicy fruit and a lengthy finish. Drink it over the next four years. Torii Mor Winery was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson who continue to actively operate the winery. The winery produces 15-18,000 cases, mostly from the Dundee Hills AVA. Tel. (503) 538-4001; www.toriimorwinery.com

The name means “two glasses”—the suggestion being that you’ll want more than one. Fair enough. It’s a substantial, well-managed wine, with some chewy cherry fruit wrapped in herbal flavors of stem and skin. Good fruit in the middle, with the alcohol and oak in check. ——P.G.(10/1/2004)—— 88