The Shea vineyard is still recovering from extensive post-phylloxera replanting, and many of the wines produced from its fruit seem much lighter than in the past. Here, however it compensates, at least partially, with a graceful, elegant composition. The mix of red fruits, mineral and light spring herbs is perfectly set against polished tannins. I would expect this wine to add texture and complexity over the next decade or more.——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 90