The 2013 Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard was picked on October 3 and 4, and aged in 25% new French oak. It has a pinched nose of black cherry and bilberry fruit, quite a strong earthiness that becomes more apparent as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, light tertiary black fruit that tapers towards a simple, easy-drinking finish. There is a large gap between this 2013 and the far superior 2012.

From vines located next to Drouhin, planted in 1990 at high density (6-by-3 feet) on its own roots. Cropped at under 1 ton per acre the 2012 Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard underwent an extended maceration to obtain the fruit quality that was lacking because of the drying wind at the end of the growing season. Deeper in color that Torii Mor's other 2012s, it has a backward bouquet at first that reluctantly opens with dark berry, black tea, juniper berries and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red and black fruit on the entry, interlaced with Asian spices and white pepper. There is clearly a lot of concentration on the mid-palate, but I feel that winemaker Jacques Tardy has managed and integrate them well and the finish feels powerful, not over-powering. This burly, broad-shouldered Pinot needs two or three years in bottle, but it should be well worth the wait.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard is slightly more brooding and reveals darker fruit. In the glass it opens to reveal excellent volume, savory flavors, and good concentration for the vintage. It has the structure to evolve for 1-2 years and will drink well through 2019 if not longer. Torii Mor was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson. Their Olson Estate Vineyard was planted in 1972 making it one of the oldest in the state. Production now stands at 15,000 cases. Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com