I appreciate this modestly priced, Willamette Valley 2016 Pinot Noir from Torii Mor, as it performs as well as the more expensive bottlings in the portfolio. It has a medium ruby color and classically styled nose of cola, woodsmoke, cranberry and pomegranate with blackberry hints and an earthy undercurrent. The palate is light-bodied and fresh with saline accents, a soft, lightly chalky frame and vibrant acidity, finishing long.

Pale to medium ruby in color, the 2015 Pinot Noir has a nose of Bing cherry, cranberry sauce and rhubarb with touches of forest floor and wood smoke. The light to medium-bodied palate offers red fruit framed by touches of spice with grainy tannins and just enough freshness to carry the finish. 7,313 cases produced.

The 2013 Pinot Noir was picked between September 20 and October 4, and aged for ten months in mostly French oak. It has a rather "fluffy," spicy bouquet that does not quite have the freshness of the 2012. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannin, strangely evolved for a 2013 with an attenuated finish that lacks fruit concentration.

The 2012 Pinot Noir comes from purchased fruit mainly from the Willamette and supplemented by fruit from the Umpqua Valley. It undergoes a cold soak with three punch downs per day without extended maceration, aged in 20% new oak. The nose is nicely defined with brambly red berry fruit and light sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet opening, the red cherry fruit quite tart and laced with tangy marmalade, leading to a balanced, lightly spiced finish. Fine.

The new collection begins with the entry-level 2009 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley blended from 17 vineyards. The aromatics exhibit spicy red fruits and floral notes informing the nose of a pleasant, tasty, but slightly superficial Pinot in need of more depth and concentration, a common problem in this vintage. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Torii Mor was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson. Their Olson Estate Vineyard was planted in 1972 making it one of the oldest in the state. Production now stands at 15,000 cases.Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com