This outstanding vineyard was extensively re-planted a few years ago due to phylloxera, so these young vines are just in their second or third leaf. Good fruit, to be sure, but simple and light; this is not to be confused with the old-vine Shea, which has extraordinary power and dense, blackberry fruit. Here it’s light cherry and berry, nothing more. ——P.G.(9/1/2006)—— 87