The 2010 Chardonnay is the least convincing of these 2010s from Toros, largely because it doesn’t seem to have direction. Chardonnay in Friuli tends towards one of several styles, some are built on minerality, others are shaped by French oak, but here the Chardonnay is lost somewhere in no-man’s land. There is good varietal definition, but there are also elements of dilution that make it hard for any real meaningful character to come through. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Importer: T. Edward Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The estate’s 2008 Chardonnay offers plenty of varietal character in a steely, focused style but it doesn’t quite match the heights of the finest whites in this line-up. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I was quite impressed with the wines I tasted from Toros this year. The 2008 whites are among the finest wines to emerge from this challenging harvest.Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The 2007 Chardonnay comes across as somewhat disjointed in its expression of ripe fruit, spices, smoke and French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Toros is a small producer based in Cormons, in the heart of the Friulian Collio.Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504