The 2017 Collio Pinot Bianco shows a very expressive side of this normally neutral-smelling variety. The grape aromas are more forthcoming in this hot vintage. You get distinctive citrusy tones followed by pineapple, summer peach and cantaloupe. However, the wine is never heavy in the mouth, splashing off waves of freshness and retaining a balanced level of acidity, seamlessly woven within the thick fiber of this vintage. Only 15% of the total wine is aged in barrique for six months and the rest goes straight into stainless steel. This fresh and citrus-forward selection easily cuts through a raclette and potatoes or an Emmental fondue. Some 12,000 bottles were made.

Of the various white wines presented by Toros, the 2014 Collio Pinot Bianco is the most articulate and complete. The bouquet shows impressive intensity with preserved lemon, white rose and crushed oyster shell. The results defy the difficult conditions of the vintage. The mouthfeel is thinner and less elaborate.

The estate’s 2006 Pinot Bianco takes things to another level in its gorgeous, fresh aromatics and jasmine, honeydew melon, white peach and spice nuances. It offers outstanding purity and a long, crisp finish. This is textbook Pinot Bianco from Collio. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Various American importers, including: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504; Soletta Vini, Santa Ana, CA; tel. (714) 556-7896; Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200