The 2010 Bottaccia (Uva di Troia) is beautiful. Sweet, floral aromatics meld into dried cherries and plums. Hints of spice and tobacco appear later, adding complexity to the perfumed, expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. I am a big fan of the Torre Quarto wines. These delicious, forward reds deliver tons of varietal and regional character at modest prices. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2009 Uva di Troia Bottaccia shows off gorgeous freshness in its rose petals, bright red cherries, sweet spices and anise. I particularly admire the wine's energy and polish. This refined red presents the more elegant side of Uva di Troia in convincing fashion. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014 Torre Quarto is an excellent source for budget-friendly wines that showcase Puglia's indigenous varieties.Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2008 Uva di Troia Bottaccia is bold and exuberant in its intensely perfumed fruit, spices and herbs. There is wonderful sense of vibrancy that runs through the Bottaccia that confers minerality and balance. This is a terrific effort from Torre Quarto. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898