Trinchero’s 2006 Barbera d’Asti Vigna del Noce wraps around the palate with serious weight, depth and richness. Black cherries, tobacco, scorched earth, worn-in leather, game and incense burst from the glass in this huge, old-style Barbera. Layers of fruit flow through to the big, inviting finish. The 2006 is highly idiosyncratic but attractive just the same. As always, slight oxidative notes are present throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Trinchero makes some of the most distinctive Barbere readers will come across. The top selections, the Vigna del Noce and the multi-vintage Rosso del Noce, are loaded with character. As good as the wines can be, there is a lot of bottle variation with Trinchero. Personally, I think better corks – certainly a necessity with wines that are meant to be cellared – is an absolute must. The current state of affairs is just not good enough. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The single-vineyard 2004 Barbera d’Asti Vigna del Noce is richer and deeper than the straight bottling. It, too, has plenty of tertiary complexity, with layers of tobacco, spices, earthiness and licorice that take shape in the glass. The wine has retained excellent freshness, but elements of beefiness and gaminess make this a rather rustic offering. The old vines, maceration on the skins of 45 days and five years in oak might have been too much of a good thing. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Trinchero is one of the most eccentric producers in Asti. The wines see extended time in barrel and are typically released much later than the norm. Admittedly I have mixed feelings about some of these wines, but when they are on, they are nothing short of magnificent. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2003 Barbera d’Asti Vigna del Noce possesses fabulous intensity and purity in its dark fruit. Over time, menthol, flowers, licorice and violets emerge in the glass, adding further layers of complexity. Today the tannins are a bit prominent, but if they soften the Vigna del Noce may very well develop into an even finer wine than my score suggests. Its development over the time I followed it certainly suggests that is likely, if not probable. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Trinchero makes big, powerful Barberas loaded with character. The estate’s practice of releasing their wines later than most gives readers a great opportunity to see how Barbera develops with extended bottle aging. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Smoke, cedar, tobacco and earthiness are among the nuances that come to life in the estate’s 1999 Barbera d’Asti Vigna del Noce. Some of the primary fruit has melted away, resulting in a highly complex, engaging Barbera that is very rewarding to drink now. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Trinchero makes big, powerful Barberas loaded with character. The estate’s practice of releasing their wines later than most gives readers a great opportunity to see how Barbera develops with extended bottle aging. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404