Acidity, the kind that makes the tastebuds bristle, is what makes this semi-sweet Riesling a success. Without it, the ripe apricot, pineapple, peach and honey flavors would be flat and simple. With it, the wine is bright and succulent. A sweet, sugar-glazed ham will be a match made in heaven.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 86