The 2018 Conero Riserva Cúmaro knocks it out of the ballpark with plush fruit and medium-rich concentration. The wine is partially aged in new oak (about 25%), and the rest goes into oak barrels used two and three times. The point is to finesse the tannins so that the wine is not aggressive or astringent. However, you also get the volume and richness that comes from oak aging. The wine ends with plenty of balanced dark fruit and spice.

This is a highly recognized wine that enjoys its own special following in Italy and beyond. The 2016 Conero Riserva Cúmaro is a pure expression of Montepulciano from the Conero bluffs that dip into the Adriatic Sea on a small promontory where sunshine and sea breezes caress the vines. Aged in French oak for 12 months, this wine is stacked tall and wide with dark fruit, sweet spice and cured tobacco. The wine is beautifully balanced, full and ripe. A classic Marchigiano lamb roast would pair nicely here.

This is another local celebrity from Marche. I have a vivid memory of when I first tried this wine about 15 years ago (it has been in production since 1985), and I remember how it opened a world to me and my appreciation of the versatile and almost always satisfying Montepulciano grape. The Umani Ronchi 2014 Conero Riserva Cúmaro is named after the Greek name "Komaros" for an evergreen Arbutus plant that grows commonly on this stretch of Adriatic Coast. This is a plump and generous red that carries a heavy load of black fruit, spice and tobacco. Enjoy it with some roasted lamb and white beans. It ages in barrique for 12 to 14 months. Some 36,000 bottles were made.

Umani Ronchi has created a very attractive and approachable red wine. The 2010 Conero Riserva Cúmaro boasts a seamless bouquet and rich, dark intensity. This is a beautiful creation that bursts open with lush aromas of black fruit and plum followed by licorice and toasted spice. The wine is energetic and lively in the mouth, thanks to bright acidity and a medium build.

Black cherries, tar, violets, smoke and incense burst from the glass in the 2008 Conero Riserva Cumaro. The 2008 is gorgeous and vibrant from the very first taste. Layers of dark fruit flow through to an effortless, gracious finish supported by firm yet polished tannins and just the right amount of French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725