Weinbau Uwe Schiefer Szapary Blaufrankisch, Sudburgenland, Austria

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Schiefer’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Szapary is named for the steep slope of quartzite- and iron-rich schist (or, as German speakers would simply say, “Schiefer”), that Schiefer thinks is the best in the Eisenberg area, and in which he has three parcels, one of which he planted just under a decade ago. (A Germanic form of this vineyard name – utilized by Franz Weninger for his bottling – is Saybritz.) Open-top fermented, this wine is matured in 300- and 500-liter barrels – although Schiefer is now tending away from anything as small as 300s. Bright, sappy blackberry and cherry and bitter-sweet herbal concentrate are met by salty, peaty, crushed stone notes in a truly palate-saturating communion. This has a cut and clarity, a cling and invigoration you won’t often encounter in a red wine. I wrote extensively in issue 177 about Uwe Schiefer and his remarkable and distinctive Blaufrankisch from the once-famous Eisenberg area on the Hungarian border in South Burgenland. His 2006 collection almost certainly represents the best of his eight to date, hence some of the most exciting red wine ever produced in Austria. Despite his relatively brief history, Schiefer’s conception of Blaufrankisch as a wine with site-sensitivity and finesse comparable, and best handled in a manner akin to that of Burgundian Pinot Noir and not a wine of, as he puts it, “tannin and power,” or one best marked by small toasty barrels, has begun to resonate within Austria, not least in the exciting Moric wines of Roland Velich (the 2006s of which are reviewed in this report).Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From vines he planted himself in one of the highest, steepest places on the schistic, quartzite- and iron-rich Eisenberg, plus fruit from neighboring parcels, Schiefer’s 2005 Blaufrankisch Szapary suggests Sichuan pepper and black tea in its smokiness, and loads the nose and palate with pure, fresh blackberry fruit, then offers a complex and scintillating inner-mouth display of crustacean minerality, subtly bitter-sweet florality, and pungent spice. What’s more, this represents an exceptional value in red wine by any standards. Young Uwe Schiefer is vinifying in rather Burgundian fashion Blaufrankisch from the once-famous Eisenberg on the Hungarian border (in fact he has vinified Magyar Kekfrankos as well). The result is a refined, relatively “cool”-fruited but formidably concentrated and distinctively mineral style reminiscent of Blaufrankisch from his friend Roland Velich (who suggested I make Schiefer’s acquaintance). After having the revelatory experiences related below, I had occasion in January to taste back to the inception of Schiefer’s brief winemaking career. His 2002 and 1999 Reihburg bottlings are two of the finest Austrian red wines of my experience; more to the point, Schiefer’s Blaufrankisch are simply profoundly delicious and no wine lovers should miss the chance to taste them. He would like to purchase more acreage of his own on the Eisenberg (much of what he farms is under contract) but admits ruefully to having already achieved sufficient accolades for his wine that now small local landholders are disinclined to sell for a price he can afford. The 2006s here look to be Schiefer’s best wines yet, but I shall report on them once they are in bottle. There is a single white wine at this address.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800