Plush, opulent and soft as velvet, but lacking in acidity and tannic structure. On the other hand, if you enjoy full-throttle flavor, you’ll fall in love with the seductive taste of cassis, blackberries, and rich spice. There’s little difference between any of Sattui’s single-vineyard wines, so choose this one and save yourself a few bucks. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 87