The 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico is 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato with pressed fruit, dried cherry, earthy tones and bitter almond. Earthy notes of tar and button mushroom also appear. The close provides a sharp sense of acidity. Drink 2014-2018. A few years back it became apparent that the biggest trend in Sicilian wine was the sudden rise of the female winemaker. Among the most prominent is Gaetana Jacono of Valle dell’Acate in the Ragusa area of southern Sicily. She runs a 100-hectare farm and produces some 400,000 bottles per year. Sexy and simpatica with go get ‘em attitude (In Taormina, I saw her climb to the top of the Roman amphitheater in stiletto heels), she is a model for modern Sicily. Importers: Ruby Wines Inc., www.rubywines.com; Vinitaly Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com; Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com; Haw River Wine Man, www.hawriverwineman.com; A. Bommarito Wines, www.abommaritowines.com; Roanoke Valley Wine Company, www.rvwc.com; Cream Wine Company, www.creamwine.com; Augustan Wine Imports, www.augustanwine.com; Vinum Wine Importing & Distrbution, www.vinumimporting.com; A.H.D. Vintners Wine Distribution Service, www.ahdvintners.com; Domaines and Appellations, www.dnawineimports.com; La Cigale Wines, www.lacigalewines.com; Vanguard Wines, www.vanguardwines.com

Another superb value, the 2009 Cerasuolo di Vittoria boasts a serious core of dark red and black fruit. Hints of smoke, menthol, licorice and tar round out this powerful, intense Nero d’Avola/Frappatto blend. I imagine the 2009 is best enjoyed over the next year or two, while the fruit retains its juiciness and richness. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Valle dell’Acate’s lineup is full of reasonably priced wines full of varietal and regional character. It is impossible to go wrong with any of these flavorful offerings. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Cream Wine Company, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 421-1900

The 2008 Cerasuolo di Vittoria is 70% Nero d'Avola (aged in oak) and 30% Frappato (aged in steel), a marriage that works beautifully. The Frappato adds freshness and verve to the dark fruit of the Nero d'Avola. Menthol, licorice and spices develop on the mid-palate and finish, adding further complexity. This is another marvelous wine from Valle dell'Acate. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is a superb set of wines from Valle dell'Acate. Not only are the wines delicious, the best bottles deliver incredible value as well. The estate uses only their best hillside plots for the Valle dell'Acate label, while the vineyards in the plains are used for the entry-level Case Ibidini range. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2007 Cerasuolo di Vittoria (70% Nero d'Avola and 30% Frappato) is a fabulous wine graced with notable purity in its dark red fruit, mint, spices and flowers. This shows gorgeous balance and richness in a mid-weight, totally compelling style. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. These new releases from Valle dell-Acate are impressive. Best of all, most of these wines can be had for less than $25 a bottle. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2006 Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a meaningful step up in quality from the Frappato. This cuvee of 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% Frappato offers the unique aromatic qualities of both varieties, with notable richness on the palate. Readers will find plenty of vibrant dark red fruit in this tasty, generous red. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Valle dell’Acate. A number of these wines are priced below or around $25 and are terrific values. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404