The 2009 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba shows off tons of varietal character in its dark cherries, dried flowers, spices, sage and rosemary. This sleek, mid-weight red reveals lovely balance and terrific finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Proprietor Angela Velenosi is one the Marche’s emerging producers. Her line-up is full of delicious wines that are reasonably priced. Consistency across the entire line appears to be the only thing holding Velenosi back at this point.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2007 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba is an exuberant, fruity red that reveals an intriguing combination of ripe, jammy fruit and sweet medicinal herbs in a style that resembles a dry Brachetto with an extra dimension of density in its fruit. This quirky red is best enjoyed with food rather than on its own. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. These are the finest wines I have tasted from Velenosi, an emerging producer in the Marche that is very close to making a huge jump in the overall quality of their wines. Each bottle has a different look in terms of its label, and the estate could certainly consider a more consistent look for its packaging, which would make it easier for consumers and the trade to keep track of these wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799