Velich’s 2007 Chardonnay Tiglat – which had been assembled but not bottled when I last tasted it – offers heady floral aromas along with lime, fresh peach, and a whiff of smoke. Rich and silken in texture and lusciously ripe, this is Chassagne-like in its alliance of pit fruits, citrus, red berries, toasted grains, and chalk. But no Chassagne I know would finish with such a burst of sheer mouth-watering fresh fruit as this, one of most exuberant young whites I can recall at this address. Expect this to merit cellaring for at least 4-5 years. Heinz Velich (whose brother and former partner is the force behind the wines of Moric, about which see elsewhere in this report) produces Austria’s most distinguished Chardonnay (from vines his father planted believing they were Pinot Blanc) as well as some of the country’s finest nobly sweet wines. His wines are marked among other things by long stays in barrel and low-sulfur, resulting in a style Velich considers but closer to tradition and (especially when it comes to nobly sweet elixirs) more interesting from a culinary standpoint than the more reductive approach favored by most of his fellow Neusiedlersee vintners.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

The 2006 Chardonnay Tiglat – harvested late in October, a week after the corresponding Darscho, and vinified in barrique – displays similarly impressive creaminess; smells of cherry blossom, diverse hedge flowers, almond, and salt spray; saturates the palate with low-toned, toasted nuttiness and ripe apricot richness, accented by citrus zest, peach kernel bitterness; and finishes long on vividly saline and chalky mineral suggestions and with a remarkable sense of lift and even delicacy. Plan to follow this for up to 3-4 years. Heinz Velich (whose brother and former partner is the force behind the wines of Moric, about which see elsewhere in this report) produces Austria’s most distinguished Chardonnay (from vines his father planted believing they were Pinot Blanc) as well as some of the country’s finest nobly sweet wines. His wines are marked among other things by long stays in barrel and low-sulfur, resulting in a style Velich considers but closer to tradition and (especially when it comes to nobly sweet elixirs) more interesting from a culinary standpoint than the more reductive approach favored by most of his fellow Neusiedlersee vintners.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

The 2004 Chardonnay Tiglat, done largely in barrique, offers richness with spine, creaminess, yet brightness and clarity. Caramelized pear, baked apple, vanilla cream, and subtly integrated oak come together for a ravishingly complete and balanced wine. Even the 2003 Tiglat retained a remarkable amount of freshness. Importer pending.

Still a good wine, but not up to the fine quality of the 2001. Buttered toast seems to dominate, with nutty, melony notes more of an afterthought. Imported by Winemonger.com. ——J.C.(11/15/2005)—— 84