The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Odoardo Beccari bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of wild black cherries, smoke, licorice and scorched earth. This shows gorgeous mid-palate sweetness married to expressive aromatics in a generous style that is quite unusual in 2008. The mineral-laced finish is quite striking. The Odoardo Beccari is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Caniaolo. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Importer: Superior Wines LLC, Cranford, NJ; tel. (908) 276-8826

The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Odoardo Beccari is a stunningly beautiful bottle of wine. Like all of the house’s reds, it is staggering in its richness and opulence, yet there is plenty of minerality, freshness and verve to create an intriguing tug of war between those elements. Violets, tar, crushed rocks, black cherries and French oak come together in this majestic, towering red. This isn’t for the timid, or for readers seeking a more varietally representative Chianti Classico. Leaving those attributes aside, this is a texturally gorgeous wine that boasts tons of fruit supported by finessed tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Superior Wines LLC, Cranford, NJ; tel. (908) 276-8826

The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneto Odoardo Beccari opens up to reveal a deep core of plush, dark black fruits. Smoke, licorice and new leather linger on the long, potent finish. This dense, fruit-driven wine is still quite youthful and needs at least a few additional years in bottle to develop the full spectrum of its expressiveness. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Importer: Superior Wines LLC, Cranford, NJ; tel. (908) 276-8826