Outstanding, the 2010 Mas de Maha is an intriguing blend of 50% Tempranillo, 25% Grenache and 25% Carignan. Aged in a combination of new French oak (Tempranillo), neutral oak (Carignan) and tank (Grenache), its inky, opaque color is followed by first rate aromas of black cherries, licorice, liquid mineral, leather and dried spices that continue to develop over the evening. Both firm and juicy on the palate, with the Tempranillo component really showing, this medium to full-bodied 2010 is beautifully ripe, has a deft, light texture and plenty of framing tannin on the finish. It too will benefit from short-term cellaring and shine for over a decade. Drink 2015-2020. One of my favorite estates, Cris Cherry’s Villa Creek is located on the western side of Paso Robles, high up off Peachy Canyon Road. He continues to experiment with Rhone and increasingly Spanish (think Rioja and Priorat) varieties, as well as with varying amount of whole-cluster inclusion. The wines offer singular, unique profiles, with loads of flavor and character. Tel. (805) 238-7145; www.villacreekwine.com

The 2007 Mas de Maha was somewhat of a disappointment. I have enjoyed this wine much more in the past, but this incarnation, a blend of 60% Tempranillo, 30% Grenache, and 10% Mourvedre, is very angular, with tart acids. The result is an austere, leaner wine without the charm and graciousness of previous examples. Nevertheless, I suspect it will show better with food than at a tasting in a vacuum. Tel. (805) 238-7145; Fax (805) 238-7514