My only reservation was, ironically, with their most expensive wine in the portfolio, the 2006 Onda from the James Berry Vineyard (probably one of my three or four favorite vineyard sites in all of California). This blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre was super-tight, closed, monolithic, and actually hard and charmless. It has deep color and loads of minerality, but no matter how much aeration and coaxing I gave it, it wouldn’t emerge from a blanket of tannin. Given the track record of this winery and its overall consistent high level of quality, I am sure there is more here than meets both the eye and palate at this stage. Among my favorite producers from California’s Central Coast, Villa Creek had five of six offerings that showed brilliantly.Tel. (805) 238-7145; Fax (805) 238-7514

The exceptional 2005 Onda, a blend of equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tempranillo, is fashioned from the James Berry, Denner, and Ohana vineyards. An elegant beauty, it boasts abundant quantities of sweet black raspberry and cherry fruit interwoven with figs and plums. Soft tannins give the wine a sexy, silky texture as well as an attractive, voluptuous mouthfeel. This dark ruby/purple-tinged 2005 should drink nicely for 4-5 years. One of my favorite wineries from Paso Robles is Villa Creek Cellars, which fashions innovative Rhone Ranger blends that taste great and, for the most part, are fairly priced.Tel. (805) 238-7145; Fax (805) 238-7514