Tart blackberry seeds dominate the Villa Ponciago 2010 Fleurie Les Hauts du Py, whose resinous, smoky barrel component – perhaps because it so starkly contrasts with the wine’s fruity personality, or perhaps because there is less density of material than in 2009 – is more noticeable than on any of the other releases I tasted from this estate’s first two vintages. That said, infectious juiciness; invigorating tartness; and mouthwatering salinity carry the day in the finish, even if there is not the depth of flavor – at least for now – as exhibited by the best wines of this vintage, or by the corresponding 2009. The tannins are evident but fine-grained. I would not discourage following this for at least 3-4 years. The Henriot family acquired the Chateau de Poncie with its 120 vineyard acres (encompassing 214 parcels!) in 2008, but the first commercial releases came last year from the 2009 vintage, and labeled with an allusion to the alleged name of this property in late Roman times (though it began its known life as a wine estate when the Abbey of Cluny was granted it in 949). Given the evolution of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre under Henriot ownership – not to mention the fact that this estate incorporates some of the traditionally highest-rated vineyard sites in Beaujolais – great expectations will be riding on these wines, and the early results are already impressive. The new team – led by Thomas Henriot and cellarmaster Frederic Weber – are vinifying in an essentially Burgundian fashion, aging the wines in older barriques and a few new demi-muids. Since – due to my own negligence – I did not visit these cellars, I missed out on tasting one of the 2010s that had not yet been bottled as of this summer.Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

From – as its name intimates – the highest, stoniest portion of former Chateau de Poncie (and roughly ten acres in surface) the Villa Ponciago 2009 Fleurie Les Hauts du Py leads with a concentration of blackberry and cherry wreathed in decadent, musky floral perfume. Firm, bright, and invigoratingly saline on the palate, with deep but in no way superficially sweet fruit accompanied by roasted red meatiness; this has a great deal in common with its La Roche Muriers counterpart, although it is a bit more austere in finish thanks to enhanced structure; a subtle undertone of crushed stone; and slightly less mouthwatering salinity. But I am confident this is one to follow for a half dozen or more years.The Henriot family acquired the Chateau de Poncie with its 120 vineyard acres (encompassing 214 parcels!) in 2008, but the first commercial releases came last year from the 2009 vintage, and labeled with an allusion to the alleged name of this property in late Roman times (though it began its known life as a wine estate when the Abbey of Cluny was granted it in 949). Given the evolution of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre under Henriot ownership – not to mention the fact that this estate incorporates some of the traditionally highest-rated vineyard sites in Beaujolais – great expectations will be riding on these wines, and the early results are already impressive. The new team – led by Thomas Henriot and cellarmaster Frederic Weber – are vinifying in an essentially Burgundian fashion, aging the wines in older barriques and a few new demi-muids. Since – due to my own negligence – I did not visit these cellars, I missed out on tasting one of the 2010s that had not yet been bottled as of this summer.Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706