The 2003 Taurasi is a big, full-bodied wine packed with dark cherries, spices, herbs, chocolate and French oak. Despite the wine’s powerful tannins, this remains a fairly accessible Taurasi. With more varietal character, the wine might merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Villa Raiano makes a wide variety of wines, but I only found a handful that merit close attention. The reds are markedly better than the whites, but this is an estate that is still searching for a consistent house style.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 1999 Taurasi, a dark garnet in color, displays ripe red fruit and alcoholic warmth on the nose, size and continuity on the palate, and a certain finesse of texture and tannins. Drink: 2005-2010.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871