Vina Alicia Brote Negro Malbec, Las Compuertas, Argentina

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The excellent 2008 Brote Negro is from Las Compuertas from Malbec vines grown in a 150-year-old vineyard at 1,300 meters altitude and aged for 14 to 16 months in new French oak. The name means “black shoot,” from what is believed to be a mutated clone of Malbec. The nose is tightly wound with scents of blackberry, melted tar, graphite and a touch of orange zest. It is well-defined but demands coaxing. The palate is sweet and sappy on the entry, with copious dark cherry, mulberry and dark plum fruit, leading to a sweet raspberry jam finish. It has a caressing mouthfeel with a strong licorice note on the aftertaste. It is a swarthy, convincing Malbec that will be enhanced with food. Drink 2013-2025. Vina Alicia is a small estate located in Lujan de Cuyo where the two vineyards are situated: San Alberto, a high density planting at 11,300 vines per hectare and Vina Alicia itself. It was founded in 1998 by Alicia Mateu Arizu, the wife of Alberto Arizu at Luigi Bosca, and it is now managed by her son, Rodrigo Arizu. He is one of many young winemakers experimenting with different clones in Mendoza. Vina Alicia embraces more “esoteric” varieties for the region, and with some considerable success.Importer: Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (866) 57-STARZ

A tale of two wines. The early impression is that of a foxy, incomplete, sweaty wine with gaps in the fabric. But once it gets air, things turn around for the better. Ultimately it proves itself as a serious Malbec with a broad texture and jammy, sweet berry fruit. But it starts out so scattered and funky that it remains compromised. ——M.S.(3/1/2011)—— 88