Talk about a wine that’s tight as a bank vault. You almost need a pick and axe to get into this bruiser. The bouquet is drawn in, with toast, lemon peel and pure belt leather adding a manly element to the earthy fruit that lurks below. What a pedigree on this single-vineyard alta expression red, and the coffee-flooded finish goes on and on. Hold until 2009. 125 cases made. ——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 95