I generally have a slight preference for Dauvissat's Les Preuses, a preference I suspect Vincent Dauvissat shares, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, at least at this early stage, gets my nod as the king of the cellar—and the wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish.

The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is, if anything, more introverted than Les Preuses this year. Mingling notes of citrus oil, pear and crisp stone fruit with hints of fresh bread, vanilla pod and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and muscular, with huge concentration, framed by chalky extract and lively acids. Concluding with a long, saline finish, it will require considerable patience.

Aromas of pear, green apple and citrus oil mingling with hints of fresh bread and oyster shell introduce Dauvissat's 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, layered wine that's ample and elegantly muscular, girdled by bright acids and revealing more overt structure than Les Preuses at this stage. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, even in the demonstrative 2018 vintage, this will merit a bit of patience.

More muscular and enveloping than the Preuses, Dauvissat's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos unfurls in the glass with aromas of ripe lemons, confit citrus, pastry cream and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with a rich, structured but incisive profile and a long, chalky finish. If Les Preuses is the more intellectual of the two grand cru bottlings, Les Clos is the more direct and easy to understand.

From bottle, the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is more immediately expressive than the Preuses, revealing aromas of honeyed lemons, preserved citrus and quince. On the palate, it's fuller-bodied, deep and ample, even rich, with a layered core, succulent acids and almost chewy levels of extract, concluding with a long finish. It's a very serious Les Clos that could well be the wine of the vintage.