The 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese smells intensely of ginger-spiced apple jelly, lemon zest, pungent wood smoke, and kirsch. The creamy, thick palate impression and honeyed cast – like the wines ester-filled, pungent nose – signal an exceedingly full measure of noble rot. For all of its expansive richness and liqueur-like concentration, though, the present T.B.A. does not fail to exhibit subtlety and even delicacy in its finish of ginger, apple, apple pip, cherry pit, honey, citrus zest, salts, and smoke. Incidentally, this ravishing wine – one that combines astonishing richness with refreshment value and that I would not hesitate to cellar for 30 or more years – is being sold off the winery’s regular price list, not auctioned. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463