The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Loiser Berg Trockenbeerenauslese presents a smoky, dusty, overt impression of botrytis in the nose – albeit with honey and Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences present as well – so that I feared for bitter, fungal flavors on the palate. I could not have been more wrong. In the mouth, this combines creamy richness of texture and subtle caramelization with luscious, downright refreshing pineapple and lemon concentrate. It makes up in sheer purity and length for any nooks and crannies or nuances of flavor that aren’t at present accessible. It is another candidate for revisiting in a few years and is capable of aging gracefully for two decades. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Loiser Berg is a cool vineyard, facing south, to the west of Langenlois. Gruner Veltliner and Riesling grow well. This TBA is now maturing well, as its gold color proves. While the primary fruit flavors have gone, there is still great freshness, with honey and spices the main tastes. Judging by that freshness, it still has many years to go.——R.V.(2/1/2007)—— 93