Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Fass 37

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The 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Fass 37 combines the apple jelly, apple skin, and brown spices that were among the notable features of the Rothenpfad, with bright tangerine citricity that lend juiciness despite the wine’s almost buttery texture. Lingering and imposingly rich as this is, it doesn’t display the clarity or purity of botrytis, let alone delicacy of the sweet Kabinett or Spatlese. But it would be fascinating to revisit in 7-10 years and it ought to flourish for 20. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312