Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett Trocken

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A few dry wines, however, appear on the market early, and the 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Kabinett trocken offers a lot of stuffing and mineral broth character, nutty, leesy depth, and creaminess of texture, all distinctively slate- and Mosel-typical, yet somewhat analogous to a fine Chablis. Chances are, most readers have never tasted a Mosel Riesling at all like this, and should. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years. (The promising corresponding Kabinett halbtrocken, from a more pulverized, water-retentive parcel of grey slate, was a bit youthfully sweet-sour.) The single-site 2005 collection (bottled as “Spatlese”) stopped fermenting at 12-14% alcohol and low-level residual sugar but not necessarily legally trocken, and Busch – who sells out each year – is one of that small band of growers who are proving that German clients can be gotten to overlook that instead concentrate on taste.Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312