Busch’s 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Beerenauslese lands us in the realm of rampant botrytis. Grilled peach, lemon oil, pungent brown spices, musk, and salted meat aromas lead to a fat and oily, decidedly sweet palate that manages to pull in just enough citrus to remain marginally lively. But the finish, while far from unattractive, is relatively dominated by sheer caramel and brown sugar character.Also recommended: 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken*** ($39.00; 86).Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienberg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which makes him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Best-known inside Germany for his dry wines, he has nevertheless crafted excellent nobly sweet Rieslings in the present as well. The style tends toward creaminess of texture and ripe, relatively low acidity, particularly at the dry end of the spectrum.Importer: Mosel Wine Merchant, Manhasset, NY and Trier, Germany; tel. +49 (0) 651 14551 38