Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe, Germany

艾姆瑞克-斯康勒博酒莊蒙金海倫堡雷司令白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6015

Emrich-Schonleber 2010 年份的這款 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 相對(duì)于同款酒 Fruhlingsplatzchen 來(lái)說(shuō)，更加具有滲透力。該酒風(fēng)味中帶有煙熏、礦石和水果核的味道，與桃子、杏仁和柑橘味相互融合補(bǔ)足。 酒中的萃取物豐富，質(zhì)地柔順。余味激爽，富有活力，保持了口感中的風(fēng)味，淡淡的香草、烤堅(jiān)果、百里香和白胡椒的味道讓余味更加豐富迷人。 該酒在十年或是更久之后會(huì)更具魅力和個(gè)性。 （這款酒開(kāi)瓶放置三天后飲用，比開(kāi)瓶后馬上飲用更具深度。）

The Schonleber 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs captures a marvelous sense of primary juiciness of grapefruit, pineapple, lime, honeydew melon, and white peach such as one seldom encounters in its genre, and holds this through a finish of consummate refreshment and gravity-defying levity. At the same time, there is a complexity of mineral elements here that leaves you scratching your head; a silken texture and glycerin-richness that leave your palate seductively soothed; and tart fruit skin as well as subtly bitter fruit pit notes that add to an insistent sense of invigoration. Elder flower, narcissus, and orange blossom contribute an alluring floral dimension that wafts all the way through the long finish. An unforgettable purity of fruit, transparency to mineral and floral nuances, and levity such as one scarcely encounters among Grosse Gewachse should keep this remarkable Riesling a source of riveting fascination for the next 12-15 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.”Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

Intriguingly saline, marine and crustacean notes rise from the glass of Schonleber 2008 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs and continue throughout. Chablis-like chicken stock and shellfish reduction combine with red currant, sour cherry, lime, and grapefruit on a tart yet luscious, glossily-textured yet refreshing palate The superbly satisfying and stimulating finish offers a dynamic exchange between the wine’s saline, animal savor and its bright citrus, accompanied by suggestions of nut oils and hints of fruit pit bitterness. This energetic and multi-dimensional Halenberg should be worth following for more than a decade. Werner and Frank Schonleber are another Nahe dream team whose amazing performance in 2007 has been equaled in 2008. “I wouldn’t call it a vintage with the emphasis on fruit,” says Werner Schonleber, “but rather on a pronounced, saline minerality. And there was no great selection of nobly sweet wine this year, because every three or four days it would rain at least a little bit.” He offers as “a very simple explanation” of this pronounced minerality the classic one adduced by growers (whether or not scientifically supportable) that the vines better “assimilate mineral stuff” when mild weather and plenty of moisture grease – as it were – the wheels of plant metabolism. And such vintages always boast measurably high levels of dry extract; the question remains, has that – as most growers believe – anything to do with their expression of flavors for which we feel compelled to employ mineral vocabulary?Importers: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463