At first I was shocked by the medium dark golden color of the 1992 Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) Auslese. From a color perspective it appears evolved, but the nose offers rich, buttery, waxy, fresh, and lively aromas. Dry and full-bodied, with a smoky, creamy richness, an exotic, honeyed, tropical fruit character, and an admirably long finish, this is a flamboyantly-styled, broad-shouldered wine for drinking with intensely-flavored dishes.Muller-Catoir is Germany's most fashionable winemaker, enjoying a position among connoisseurs much like that of such illustrious French winemakers as Jean-Francois Coche-Dury, Comte Lafon, Michel Niellon, and Olivier and Leonard Humbrecht. Muller-Catoir's aromatic wines are undoubtedly super-ripe and multi-dimensional, as well as exceptionally complex. Most importantly, they are delicious! Not surprisingly, Muller-Catoir excelled in the 1992 vintage, with two of the firm's sweeter cuvees approaching perfection.A Terry Theise Estate Selection, imported by Milton S. Kronheim Co., Washington, DC.