For the extraordinary diversity of great wines that are produced, Muller-Catoir is Germany's greatest estate. Who else achieves such brilliance with not only Riesling, but with Muskateller, Scheurebe, and Rieslaner? Muller-Catoir's 1994s are brilliant wines, as well as the most backward I have tasted from this estate. Their extremely high extract bodes well for future development, as do their magnificently high yet ripe acids. Muller-Catoir produced two legendary sweet wines in 1994, both from the Rieslaner grape. The medium gold-colored 1994 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese boasts a spectacularly rich, honeyed nose intertwined with scents of spring flowers, tropical fruits, minerals, and spices. Absolutely great, this viscous, full-bodied, remarkably rich, concentrated wine carries only 8% alcohol. It offers a huge mouthful of gorgeously pure, phenomenally extracted fruit presented in a sweet style. Despite its enormous extract and weight, the acidity provides zest and clarity to its massive personality. This should be an immortal Rieslaner TBA that will drink well for 20-30+ years. Importer: a Terry Theise Selection, Milton S. Kronheim & Co., Jessup, MD; tel. (410) 724-3369

Muller-Catoir's sweet wine offerings range from an exceptional 1992 Mussbacher Eselshaut Riesling Beerenauslese (honeyed peach and apricot fruit combined with minerals), to the nearly perfect 1992 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Eiswein and 1992 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese.The Mussbacher Eselshaut Trockenbeerenauslese (only 50 half-bottles are available for the world) exhibits a Cote Rotie-like, smoky, bacon fat-scented nose. Lavishly rich, with stunning precision and phenomenally high extract, this gigantically-proportioned wine never tastes heavy or cloying because of its superb natural acidity. It is an awesome, seamless wine that should keep for 25 plus years!Muller-Catoir is Germany's most fashionable winemaker, enjoying a position among connoisseurs much like that of such illustrious French winemakers as Jean-Francois Coche-Dury, Comte Lafon, Michel Niellon, and Olivier and Leonard Humbrecht. Muller-Catoir's aromatic wines are undoubtedly super-ripe and multi-dimensional, as well as exceptionally complex. Most importantly, they are delicious! Not surprisingly, Muller-Catoir excelled in the 1992 vintage, with two of the firm's sweeter cuvees approaching perfection.A Terry Theise Estate Selection, imported by Milton S. Kronheim Co., Washington, DC.