The “one star” 2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese is simply the essence of its vineyard’s character and vintage. Marzipan, vanilla-, mocha- and hazelnut-cream inform – yet seem to hover weightlessly above – the palate. Caramel apple and plum along with floral essences add complexity. The combination of richness and refinement is remarkable and no doubt this will be worth following for several decades. The harvest almost filled the month of October, but by the standards of this large estate with holdings stretching across four communes, that is (in Johannes Selbach’s words) “super quick” and volume was down 30% from the already small 2005 harvest. Musts were sometimes fined with bentonite but never with charcoal. “This is my year of superlatives,” says Selbach. “When I think of my children and their children, and about a wine one could open in a hundred years and say ‘Wow!’ one dreams of wines from great historical vintages like 1911, 1921, 1953 ... and that in one’s own lifetime one might experience and harvest wines that would number among them. For me, that’s 2006.” Selbach took an interest in Pinot Blanc for sparkling wine, since there are some promising old vines in cooler side locations of Zeltingen’s Schlossberg. But he now thinks the fruit will probably always be too ripe for that purpose, whereas the still results are themselves promising. There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

There is a “one star” 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese* . This Riesling represents in essence a “l(fā)ittle” T.B.A., and in its sharper pungency of aroma, more vividly juicy grapefruit citricity, overtly honeyed character, and sheer intensity of flavor, charts different territory from the “regular” Schlossberg B.A.. Rather than drawing on fresh apple for its core of refreshing fruit, this seems to tap into pure lemon juice. Blazing clarity and brightness carry it to a rapier finish, even as the wine remains honeyed and almost thickly rich. The “regular” Schlossberg is positively winsome compared with this large, ferocious feline. Time will tell whether this wine's star marks an extra measure of distinction. “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300