The Zilliken 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese long gold capsule A.P. #2 was, to be sure, harvested at a must weight that would normally prompt even Hanno Zilliken to label it as “Beerenauslese.” “Already with the least Auslese this year,” he explains, “we had a wine of Beerenauslese must weight. That’s not the point. I perceived the opportunity this year to render the finest possible Auslesen,” and it must be admitted that in this instance there is buoyancy and vivacity despite huge ripeness (from 141 Oechsle), residual sugar (181 grams); enormous extract; and rampant botrytis as manifested in scintillating spice and enveloping honey. Fresh lime with its candied rind; cherry and peach preserves allied to vivid tartness and chew of fruit skin, lend this bottling a surprisingly citric and “northerly” pit fruit character considering the effusive tropical fruit exhibited by so many other wines in this amazing collection. Dense and penetrating, reverberatingly vibratory in length, this seems to so overshoot any normal benchmarks for extract and acidity that even though its liveliness and uncanny levity are consistent with the descriptor “Auslese,” I have the sense that much of its nature is for now inscrutable and will take decades to reveal itself. I’ve written too many words now to get away with saying that this wine left me speechless, but its effect was certainly stunning. Hanno and Dorothee Zilliken’s 2010 collection has served for some controversy in that they not only – like Schaefers in Graach – adopted the minority position that de-acidification should be to wine, not must, but also – in this respect unlike Schaefers – performed acid-adjustments throughout their residually sweet line-up. Not that the extreme nature of what they eventually bottled could possible fail in itself to raise eyebrows. To declare myself up front (not that this isn’t evident from my scores!): I found this year’s collection chez Zilliken utterly awesome and cannot imagine that somehow seeds of early decline or subsequent disappointment are harbored in any of these wines on account of their levels of acid having been trimmed from the perilous heights where nature had left them. The view is dizzying enough (as befits the name “Rausch”) at the altitudes Hanno Zilliken chose for these Rieslings’ flight paths. “It was the tiny, millerandaged berries with their thick skins and the extreme, protracted shriveling by wind and botrytis that characterized this vintage and that concentrated everything in the grapes including ripe acidity. But even such high extract and ripeness,” insists Zilliken, “often wouldn’t have sufficed to achieve balance. Maybe in their youth, but once the baby fat was gone the acids would have come through too aggressively.” He grants, though, that experience with acid levels as high as these was formerly confined to unripe vintages (such as several he suffered through when he took over his family’s estate in the 1980s) or Eiswein. “If you’re talking about a half a gram or one gram of acid adjustment, you’re talking there about 50 or 100 liters of totally de-acidified and filtered wine blended back into a thousand liter fuder, and I just don’t see any danger. For the first two weeks, all we did was seek- and pick-out shriveled material,” narrates Zilliken, who when I ask him about his “main harvest,” replies, laughing: “What harvest? There really wasn’t much left to do after that! But those grapes that did remain healthy and green were incredibly stable. We let them hang and then picked them at the very end for our dry wines which we didn’t de-acidify. There was no Q.b.A., Kabinett, or Spatlese (he means by must weight): Auslese was the least that we harvested. After the 2005s,” Zilliken sums-up, “we thought we could never again see such a vintage of superlatives; yet 2010 in some ways begins where 2005 left off.” Only in Pradikat-labeling did this differ from previous top Zilliken collections. Waiting for Eiswein was judged a fool’s errand since Eiswein-like concentration and acidity pervaded the lot, which in turn, Zilliken thought, kept any from having genuine B.A. or T.B.A. character. An “I-don’t-know-how-they-did-it, but” feeling accompanied me as I toured what this estate had wrought in 2010.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463