One of the darkest pours of the year, this is inky black in color with a dense, molten mouthfeel. Completely dry, it shows dark flavors of coffee, plums, violets, unsweetened bitter chocolate. Desperately needs long decanting, or aging for a decade. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 87

For well over a century, this rugged old French variety has produced a clean, full-bodied and dry red wine in California. It can’t quite overcome its country-style character, but has tons of personality, and should age well for 15 years. ——S.H.(3/1/2006)—— 87