The 2021 Cabernet Malbec is the only place this vintage that you'll get to witness the majesty of Wendouree Malbec, and it shows us with aplomb just how impactful and beautiful it can be. While the varietal Cabernet Sauvignon is spicy, mid-weight, ashy and floral, the blend here is a grand show of layering. Layering fine graphite tannins over rose petal fruit, over dried spice tannins, over supple, sumptuous berry fruit. There is cocoa and raspberry, pomegranate, brine, black olive and tobacco—the list is endless. It grows as the wine opens. The wine contains multitudes, but it refrains from largesse; this is a composed wine of lingering tannins and supple/agile fruit. It morphs and whips in the mouth. Sensational. One of Australia's best. 13.4% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Note from the letter: "A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Malbec (40%), from 1971 Western, 1898 and 1975 Central and 1920 eastern vineyard plantings."

In keeping with the philosophy here of restrained ripeness, the 2017 Cabernet Malbec (13.4% alcohol) comes across as herbal on the nose, with a bit of bell pepper even, but there's also cassis and black cherries. It's medium-bodied, with tannins that manage to be silky but firm at the same time, like the stretched fabric of a kite over a balsa structure. Give it another five years or so in the cellar.