From the estate vineyard, this bone-dry white wine shows very tart citrus flavors, with a lightly bitter pear skin edge. The alcohol clocks in at just 11%; it’s almost Germanically austere, but what a match for crab cakes.——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 87

This unusual grape grows well in the Puget Sound appellation of western Washington. It shows a gunpowder nose, spicy, herbal and very dusty/dry; with tart, grassy flavors. ——P.G.(2/1/2002)—— 84